I can't believe it's been 10 years this month since I returned from 4 weeks in India! I joined my maternal grandfather, G.S.G. who was there doing family history research. His ancestral home was in the middle of a remodel, so we stayed with a family that's related through marriage in a village nearby. My job was to document photographically. Here are some highlights.
The milk makers in the courtyard of a relative's house. You haven't lived until you've had fresh, warm waterbuffalo milk with sugar. Yum!
Processing wheat. Or at least pretending to so I can photograph it...
The traditional outdoor oven, a cousin of mine.
Yes, that is me! I still have that outfit...
These guys were kind of a fixture on that wall. This is what my grandfather though his retirement would look like... Didn't work out that way. He's too much of a work-a-holic! And the Mormon faith doesn't believe in traditional retirement, either.
A city building. Have to look up what town this was in... We went to see a palace museum there, and visit the family of one of Amarjeet's friends, Dilpreet, who was the English teacher at the high school. She and the librarian helped Amarjeet show me around.
I think this is Ludhiana, the nearest "city" to where I was staying in Sidhwan Khurd. We went there pretty regularly for shopping. Open air stores are the norm, as is the mash-up of English and Hindi.
I wanted to learn some Punjabi, and my grandpa did buy me a book "Learn Punjabi in 24 days" but I didn't stick with it. I know a few key words and phrases, like milk, pretty girl, good day, and thank you.
Although culturally you don't use thank you as much there. They serve because you are their guest, no thanks needed. I ate at the table with the men and not in the kitchen with the women since I was a guest. It got kind of lonely...
Ready for a pre-wedding party... An off the rack Salwar Kameez, the others I got were all custom made for me, although not to MY specifications, but to what the tailor thought was fashionable. They were so tightly fitted that I doubt I can still wear any of them... A benefit of saris, I guess :) I'm glad most of the Punjabi outfits I've inherited are for house wear and much looser.
Three of the sisters I stayed with are on the right: Bhole (Amandeep) in turquoise, Amarjeet in green and their youngest sister Jaspreet? in white Harpreet?, cousin in pink and navy. The first two, as well as another sister, live in California now and are married to my cousins and their mother's nephew.
A traditional Sikh wedding. Groom with fancy turban, bride next to him in red. Men sit on one side, women on the other. Everyone covers their head and removes their shoes before entering the Gurdwara, meaning Gateway to the Guru, or chapel, as signs of respect and holiness.
Notice the groom's ceremonial sword... All devote initiated Sikhs, male and female, keep the signs of Khalsa, or the leadership of the Sikh faith.
Khalsa translates to Sovereign/Free or Pure/Genuine. It was a rejection of the cast system started by the 10th and last Guru or prophet Gobind Singh, on March 30, 1699. This group replaced the Gurus after Gobind Singh's death. I believe I've even been to the spot where it was started. It is in many ways similar to the priesthood and Temple endowment status of certain members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.
There are many parallels between my Grandfather's childhood religion and the faith he embraced as an adult. It's fascinating to me to study and find these. One of his brothers is very devote Sikh, and came to India while we were there for a religious retreat. We joined him for the last couple of days, and I did sit in the building for awhile while and chanted with them in Punjabi. I meditated on my Temple experience. Later I was outside reading my Bible or Book of Mormon, and a woman came up to see why I was not inside and Amarjeet had to translate and tell her that I didn't speak Punjabi. "There is salvation even being in the building!" was her reply.
Khalsa College for Women, that some of my ancestors founded, after their son was killed, so that their daughter could get a better education. This was on the edge of the town we stayed in, and the campus of the co-ed high school was next to it. There were even dorms so out-of-town students and staff could live on-site during the week, and a shuttle system for them to visit home on the weekends. I believe the Greater Gill Clan, as we call the descendants of my great-grandparents, donated a few computers for the campus.
Nek Chand's Rock Garden, in Punjab's beautiful planned city Chandigarh which also boasts a man-made lake and a rose garden, making many people's trash into treasures for all to enjoy!
Cousin Pum and my Grandpa, or Bapuji (father in Punjabi) at the rock garden. Boys we found sitting just like this...
Pretty sure this is Amritsar, the town where the Sikh's Golden Temple is located. Also the Martyr's Well.
This is Sikh men cleaning dishes after people have eaten at the free vegitarian Langar kitchen at the temple. If you think that the Hari Krishna make good food, try a Sikh Langar. Although I don't recommend the rotis made by machine...
Fresh made juice. Ask in advance that no salt and pepper be added...
Shh! Wasn't supposed to eat any street food... only got sick once while I was there, and I think that was from drinking water at a public fountain... Only bit by mosquitos when I was in the city, too. Not in any of the villages.
More water buffalo...
At the Punjabi/Sikh history museum... Good restaurant next door where I had salty lassi for the first time and the corn flat bread that goes with Saag (spinach).
The Hindu temple felt like a trip to a theme park... A priest came out and gave me a red mark on my forehead and a special gift of a coconut, some makeup and candles. (Not everyone got a gift.) I did like ringing the bell on the way in. :)
Amarjeet and I had to hold hands while we walked into the lion's mouth, the only path to the rest of the mountain...
God is love, and He is remembered everywhere in India. On trucks, by cab drivers on the dashboard, written in chalk on the sidewalk...
The wild peacock that knew we would admire and feed him roti dough. He would land on the roof and walk down the stairs to the inner courtyard, where I would sit and read during the day, unless I could convince my hostess to let me help shell peas...
The daughter (?) of one of the house helpers, with a milking stool. The families' water buffalo and calf.
Ah! The Golden Temple, see reference above :)
Very busy day!
Tejinder (? sorry, I am bad with names), with an offering plate.
Tejinder, the librarian who kindly leant me books in English, including one of Punjabi folk tales, Amarjeet who taught PE and Dilpreet who taught English at the co-ed high school. The best tour guides ever! :)
A lady scolded me, in Punjabi, for wearing Western garb to the Golden Temple. I did mostly wear Punjabi clothes while there. The skirt is actually from my friend Lama's visit to Samoa, I think.
My auntie Ranjeet in her modern kitchen, at the "Nasib House" which is a tribute to her cousin, my grandfather's older and only sister, who died when her son was little and my grandpa was in college. Ranjeet married her widower and raised her son as her own.
The house girl at Nasib house was a very enthusiastic model... Back courtyard.




































